Pommery
Le simple fait de prononcer le nom Pommery fait scintiller les yeux d'innombrables amateurs de champagne dans le monde entier. La raison en est simple : il s'agit d'un excellent champagne. Champagne ! La maison Pommery & Greno reste fidèle au credo initial de Madame Louise Pommery "La qualité d'abord ! (La qualité avant tout !)", et ce malgré les 6 millions de bouteilles livrées chaque année dans le monde entier.
La maison Pommery & Greno a une longue histoire derrière elle. Selon l'auteur Tom Stevenson, la maison Dubois-Gosset a été reprise par Narcisse Greno en 1836, le nom étant changé dans la foulée en N.Greno & Cie.
Un certain Monsieur Louis Alexandre Pommery devint partenaire de l'entreprise en 1856. Apparemment, il avait fait un investissement considérable dans l'entreprise. Les choses deviennent maintenant passionnantes ! Louis Alexandre Pommery était marié à une dame nommée Jeanne Alexandrine Louise Pommery, qui avait la tâche parfois épuisante d'^élever ses deux enfants Louis et Louise.
Tragiquement, Louis Alexandre Pommery est décédé seulement deux ans plus tard. Cela rappelle étonnamment le destin de la célèbre Madame Clicquot, mais environ 70 ans plus tard. Une veuve et mère relativement jeune se trouvait alors confrontée aux obligations non négligeables d'une entreprise.
Elle aussi a décidé de prendre les rênes. Elle aussi, avec un énorme engagement personnel, visait l'exportation. Cette fois-ci, il ne s'agissait toutefois pas de la Russie, comme c'était le cas pour la veuve Clicquot, mais de l'Angleterre. Certains initiés la surnomment 'la mère du brut', car elle produisait un champagne dosé à seulement 6 à 9 g de sucre par litre, qui jouissait d'une grande popularité en Angleterre et était loin de la teneur élevée en sucre résiduel des champagnes que les clients de la veuve Clicquot en Russie préféraient. À l'instar de la veuve Clicquot, Louise Pommery a propulsé une fine maison de champagne champenoise dans la dimension d'une classe mondiale éminente.
Louise Pommery a partiellement transformé les fruits de son succès en achats importants de vignobles situés dans des endroits absolument exceptionnels. Seule Moët & Chandon pouvait se targuer d'avoir plus de vignobles. De plus, elle a acheté un très grand terrain autour de Reims, qui contenait un nombre énorme de crayères datant de l'époque romaine. Selon l'auteur Nicholas Faith, la célèbre maison Ruinart l'a convaincue de vendre ce terrain à l'époque. Les puits de calcaire de ce type constituent le lieu de stockage idéal pour le champagne, aussi bien pendant qu'après la deuxième fermentation. Un escalier presque interminable (116 marches !) descend directement dans les profondeurs des puits, où les champagnes se sentent le mieux du point de vue de la température pendant le stockage. Vers 1900, une sorte de 'téléphérique' a été installé avec des paniers pour les bouteilles (photo : une carte postale, env. 1940). L'un des puits a également servi d'emplacement à la station de radio militaire américaine AFN en 1944. Profondément dissimulé dans le calcaire, l'émetteur du camp de Pommery bénéficiait non seulement d'une protection idéale, mais aussi probablement de l'occasion de 'dégustations' abondantes.
Au-dessus de ces crayères, Madame Louise Pommery a fait construire un imposant bâtiment dont la visite est encore aujourd'hui considérée par de nombreux touristes du monde entier comme un passage obligé lors de la visite de la Champagne. D'un point de vue stylistique et architectural, il est inhabituel et intéressant pour la région avec ses tours et ses pointes qui rappellent plutôt la vieille Angleterre. Louise Pommery a apparemment aussi fait aménager des arbustes de manière ciblée afin de dissimuler la vue sur des zones inesthétiques de Reims et de permettre au visiteur de se concentrer sur les plus beaux quartiers de la ville, comme la célèbre cathédrale de Reims. On pourrait supposer que cette femme remarquable ne voulait pas seulement enthousiasmer les gourmets avec son fantastique champagne, mais qu'elle essayait également d'étendre cette belle expérience à tout ce qui concerne Pommery. Elle vivait simplement dans une maison de campagne relativement modeste, à l'écart de ces sites imposants.
En 1979, Xavier Gardiner, déjà propriétaire de la célèbre maison Lanson, a racheté la maison Pommery. La maison est alors passée sous la tutelle du grand groupe alimentaire BSN. En 1990, le célèbre groupe LVMH a repris la maison. Aujourd'hui, elle appartient à la célèbre maison Vranken.
Aujourd'hui encore, la maison Pommery rend hommage à cette remarquable dame avec une fantastique cuvée appelée Louise.
Retour au lexique & glossaire | Tu étais là : Pommery
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