Pommery
Schon das Nennen des Namens Pommery ruft ein Funkeln in den Augen zahlloser Champagner-Liebhaber weltweit hervor. Der Grund hierfür ist einfach: Es geht um einen vortrefflichen Šampaňské! Das Haus Pommery & Greno bleibt dem ursprünglichen Credo der Madame Louise Pommery „La qualité d’abord! (Die Qualität über alles!)“ bis heute treu – und das, obwohl inzwischen 6 Mio. Flaschen pro Jahr in alle Welt ausgeliefert werden.
Das Haus Pommery & Greno blickt auf eine lange Geschichte zurück. Laut dem Autor Tom Stevenson wurde das Haus Dubois-Gosset von Narcisse Greno 1836 übernommen, wobei im selben Zuge der Name auf N.Greno & Cie geändert wurde.
Ein Herr Louis Alexandre Pommery wurde 1856 Partner der Unternehmung. Offenbar hatte er eine erhebliche Investition in die Firma getätigt. Nun wird es spannend! Louis Alexandre Pommery war mit einer Dame namens Jeanne Alexandrine Louise Pommery verheiratet, welche die mitunter anstrengende Aufgabe hatte, ihre zwei Kinder Louis und Louise ^groß zu ziehen.
Tragischerweise starb Louis Alexandre Pommery nur zwei Jahre später. Dies erinnert verblüffend genau an das Schicksal der berühmten Madame Clicquot – jedoch rund 70 Jahre später. Eine relativ junge Witwe und Mutter stand nun den nicht zu unterschätzenden Pflichten eines Unternehmens gegenüber.
Auch sie entschied sich dafür, die Zügel in die Hand zu nehmen. Auch sie zielte mit enormem persönlichem Einsatz auf den Export. Diesmal ging es jedoch nicht um Russland, wie damals bei Witwe Clicquot, sondern um England. Sie wird von manchen Insidern auch als ‚die Mutter des Brut‘ bezeichnet, da sie einen Champagner mit einer Dosage von lediglich 6 bis 9 g Zucker pro Liter herstellte, welcher höchste Beliebtheit in England genoss und fern vom hohen Restzuckergehalt jener Champagner lag, welche die Kunden der Witwe Clicquot in Russland bevorzugten. Ähnlich der Witwe Clicquot katapultierte auch Louise Pommery ein feines Champagner-Haus in der Champagne in die Dimension der prominenten Weltklasse.
Louise Pommery setzte die Früchte des Erfolges teilweise in große Käufe von Weinbergen in absolut besten Lagen um. Nur Moët & Chandon konnte mehr Weinberge aufweisen. Zudem kaufte sie ein sehr großes Grundstück um Reims auf, welches eine enorme Anzahl von Kalkschächten (Crayeres) aus römischen Zeiten enthielt. Laut dem Autor Nicholas Faith überredete sie das berühmte Haus Ruinart damals zum Verkauf dieses Grundstücks. Kalkschächte dieser Art stellen den idealen Lagerplatz für Champagner sowohl während wie auch nach der zweiten Gärung dar. Eine fast endlos anmutende Treppenanlage (116 Stufen!) führt direkt hinunter in die Tiefen der Schächte, wo die Champagner sich bei der Lagerung von der Temperatur her am wohlsten fühlen. Um 1900 wurde eine Art ‚Seilbahn‘ mit Körben für die Flaschen installiert (Bild: eine Postkarte, ca. 1940). Einer der Schächte diente 1944 auch als Standort des amerikanischen Militärsenders AFN. Tief verborgen im Kalkstein genoss der Sender im Lager von Pommery nicht nur idealen Schutz, sondern vermutlich auch die Gelegenheit ausgiebiger ‚Kostproben‘.
Über diesen Crayeres ließ Madame Louise Pommery ein imposantes Gebäude errichten, dessen Besichtigung noch heute für viele Touristen aus aller Welt als ein Muss beim Besuch der Champagne gilt. Stilistisch und architektonisch wirkt es mit seinen Türmen und Spitzen, die eher an das alte England erinnern, für die Region ungewöhnlich und interessant. Louise Pommery ließ offenbar auch gezielt Strauchwerk anlegen, um die Aussicht auf unansehnliche Gegenden von Reims zu verbergen und dem Besucher einen Fokus auf die schönsten Stadtteile wie z.B. die berühmte Kathedrale von Reims zu gestatten. Man könnte vermuten, dass diese bemerkenswerte Frau nicht nur Genießer mit ihrem fantastischen Champagner begeistern wollte, sondern dieses schöne Erlebnis auch auf alles rund um Pommery zu erweitern versuchte. Sie selbst lebte lediglich in einem verhältnismäßig bescheidenen Landhaus abseits dieser imposanten Stätten.
1979 kaufte Xavier Gardiner, bereits Besitzer des ebenfalls berühmten Hauses Lanson, das Haus Pommery auf. Daraufhin begab sich das Haus in die Obhut des großen Lebensmittel-Konzerns BSN. 1990 übernahm die bekannte Gruppe LVMH das Unternehmen. Heute gehört es zum berühmten Unternehmen Vranken.
Noch heute ehrt das Haus Pommery diese bemerkenswerte Dame mit einem fantastischen Cuvée namens Louise.
Zpět na lexikon a slovníček pojmů | Du warst hier: Pommery
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