Den biologiske omdannelse af den stærke æblesyre (lat. 'malum': 'æble') til den mildere mælkesyre (lat. 'lac': mælk) er kendt som 'malolaktisk fermentering' (almindelig forkortelse: 'MLF' = 'malolaktisk fermentering'; 'ML' = 'malolaktisk').
Denne proces, der finder sted under vinproduktionen, kaldes også "biologisk syrenedbrydning" ("BSA"). Den fremmes aktivt i mange rød- og hvidvine. Før i tiden blev malolaktisk gæring også fejlagtigt omtalt som "anden gæring". Kældermestre bemærker, at selvom "malolaktisk gæring" er et almindeligt udtryk i vinproduktion, er det ikke gæring i ordets egentlige forstand.
I vin er "gæring" omdannelsen af sukker til alkohol (primært ethanol) gennem den tilsatte gærs metaboliske aktivitet, hvorved der frigives kuldioxid (CO2). Gær er dog ikke vigtig i 'malolaktisk gæring'. I stedet er det små bakterier, der er ansvarlige for at omdanne æblesyre til mælkesyre. Størrelsesmæssigt minder disse bakterier mere om myrer end om elefanter. Den eneste lighed mellem normal og malolaktisk gæring er frigivelsen af CO2 ved omdannelsen af syren. Mængden af CO2, der udledes under konventionel gæring, er dog mange gange højere. Men lad os bare lade det blive ved det almindelige udtryk "malolaktisk gæring" og gå videre til flere detaljer:
En vis Dr. Wenzel Seifert (1862-1942) fra Østrig identificerede først en syreresistent og syrenedbrydende bakterie som værende ansvarlig for nedbrydningen af æblesyre til mælkesyre med frigivelse af CO2. Disse "mælkesyrebakterier" (eller Lactobacillus) er arter som Leuconostoc og Pediococcus. Ligesom med gær påvirker forskellige typer bakterier også aromaerne og dermed vinens smag.
Malolaktisk gæring eller syrenedbrydning kan forekomme naturligt som følge af bakterier, der overføres fra druerne (f.eks. på drueskindet, på stilke, blade eller endda på redskaber og i fade, der tidligere har været brugt til gæring), eller den kan aktivt fremmes af kældermesteren selv.
Malolaktisk gæring kan finde sted i mosten, men også senere i vinfremstillingsprocessen eller i vinen på flaske. Den kan også finde sted helt eller kun delvist. Den kan også undgås af kældermesteren, hvis han ønsker det. Den vellykkede vækst af disse bakterier afhænger af temperaturen og visse næringsstoffer. pH-værdien i mosten eller vinen må hverken være for høj eller for lav. Disse bakterier er også meget følsomme over for svovldioxid. Et højt alkoholniveau (ethanol) i vinen kan også slå bakterierne helt ihjel. De føler sig mest hjemme ved temperaturer over 20 °C. Ved temperaturer under 15°C er det derimod for koldt til malolaktisk gæring. I tiden før moderne klimaanlæg i vinproduktionen udviklede den malolaktiske gæring sig ofte spontant i sommermånederne.
Kældermestre "poder" som regel deres vine med disse bakterier efter gærens alkoholiske gæring. Resterne af den døende gær giver næring til bakterierne. Mange andre faktorer påvirker også den malolaktiske gærings succes, f.eks. tilstedeværelsen af ilt, tannin, visse gærtyper, fadlagring og filtrering af vinen.
En kældermester kan bevidst beslutte sig for eller imod malolaktisk gæring i produktionen af en vin af flere grunde. En af hovedårsagerne til at foretrække malolaktisk gæring er ofte, at den anvendte vintype kunne virke atypisk eller for bitter for kenderen uden reduktion af den strenge æblesyre. En anden grund til at vælge malolaktisk gæring er den ønskede aromatiske ændring (nogle gange også aromatisk raffinement) i vinen, som er naturligt forbundet med malolaktisk gæring. Nogle vine får også behagelige 'cremede' eller 'smørrede' aroma- og smagsnuancer gennem malolaktisk gæring.
En anden kældermester tager måske afstand fra malolaktisk gæring, fordi hans vin bevidst er sammensat på en sådan måde, at den naturlige æblesyre tilfører vinen en særlig dimension af friskhed og frugtagtighed. Naturlige frugtsyrer bidrager også til at forbedre vinenes lagringspotentiale.
Det ret kølige klima i Champagne resulterer ofte i et relativt højt syreniveau i de høstede druer. Dette giver igen mulighed for malolaktisk gæring. Malolaktisk gæring fremmes derfor bevidst af mange champagnehuse. Der er dog også nogle få champagnehuse (som f.eks. Gosset), som helt undlader malolaktisk gæring og sammensætter deres cuvéer med vinstokkenes naturlige æblesyre. Det resulterer ofte i usædvanligt friske og frugtagtige vine. Champagne som ofte er kendetegnet ved deres bemærkelsesværdige lagerkapacitet og stigende smidighed.
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