A. Margaine

A. Margaine is based in Villers-Marmery, on the eastern flank of the Montagne de Reims. The village is something of an oddity: here Chardonnay forms an island in an ocean of Pinot Noir. The house is at 3 Avenue de Champagne and is run today by Arnaud Margaine and his daughter Mathilde.

Family and history

By its own account, the family has been farming vines in Villers-Marmery since 1796. The Club Trésors de Champagne and the Guide Hachette give 1910 as the founding year of the house, with Gaston Margaine. Gaston was followed by André, Bernard and Arnaud. Mathilde returned to the estate in 2018 after working in the Netherlands and Australia. She works alongside her father in every area, from vineyard and cellar to export and marketing. Bernard joined the Spécial Club in 1977.

Sites and approach

The vineyard area is given differently depending on the source. Older sources quote 6.5 hectares, all in Villers-Marmery. The house's website now lists 10 hectares in 48 parcels, planted 90% to Chardonnay and 10% to Pinot Noir. According to Gault&Millau, the Pinot Noir comes from a small parcel in the village of Verzy.

In the vineyard, the house follows a deliberately pragmatic line. Soil cultivation and cover crops have returned. Gault&Millau lists the estate with the VDC and HVE labels, so it is not certified organic. In the cellar, every parcel is vinified separately. Malolactic fermentation is often blocked to preserve freshness. Ageing takes place in tank or in wood.

The cuvées

• Le Brut: 90% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Noir, the foundation of the house.
• Le Rosé: 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir, with 8% red wine made in-house.
• Extra-Brut: 100% Chardonnay.
• Rosé de Saignée: a short 24-hour maceration of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
• La Cuvée M: based on a perpetual reserve begun in 2002, 95% Chardonnay and 5% Pinot Noir.
• Spécial Club: a Blanc de Blancs from 100% Chardonnay from Villers-Marmery, partly vinified in oak barrels.

Visiting

The estate offers visits and experiences that can be booked through its website. One visitor's report praises the hospitality of Arnaud and Mathilde, noting that you learn something new about viticulture, soil care and vinification on every visit.