Bourdaire David

David Bourdaire runs the family estate Bourdaire-Gallois in Pouillon. The village lies in the Massif de Saint-Thierry, the northernmost part of the appellation. The hills and woods north-west of Reims are planted with around 900 hectares of vines, spread over roughly a dozen villages. Bourdaire has committed himself entirely to Meunier there.

From the cooperative to his own house

The story begins with David Bourdaire's grandfather, Robert Massonnot. He built up the vineyard on family land and in 1951, together with three other growers, founded the Pouillon cooperative. The first bottles reached the market in 1956. David Bourdaire joined in 1994 on rented vines, with his parents already working the estate. After the 2001 harvest the family left the cooperative, and he built a press house and pressing hall in time for the 2002 harvest. Since then the house has bottled as a grower-producer selling its own wines.

Vines and working methods

The estate farms 8 hectares in and around Pouillon. The grape varieties break down as follows: 85% Pinot Meunier, 10% Chardonnay and 5% Pinot Noir. Meunier, which buds late, copes best with the harsh climate. The vines are old: some rows of Chardonnay date from 1923. Grass grows between the vine rows, which limits yields and slows erosion. According to an importer, Bourdaire works organically and is in the process of converting to certification. He ages all his champagnes with 0 g/l dosage, that is, with no added sugar.

The cuvées

• Tradition: 100% Meunier from six plots, gently pressed in a Coquard press, fermented in stainless steel, with malolactic fermentation and at least 18 months on the lees.
• Prestige: Brut nature from 40% Meunier, 40% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir.
• Blanc de Blancs: Part of it is vinified in barrel.
• Rosé: On a visit in 2013 it was described as 100% Meunier, blended with red Meunier.

Gault&Millau France rates several cuvées at 91 out of 100 points, including Tradition and Prestige. The estate is listed there with organised visits and sales at the cellar door. A visit is worthwhile if you would like to get to know Meunier as the leading player. Appointments can be made on +33 3 26 03 02 42.