Emmanuel Brochet

From leased family land to his own champagne

Emmanuel Brochet is a first-generation grower. In 1997 he took over the family's vineyards in Villers-aux-Nœuds, after the leases with négociants had expired. Since then he has no longer sold his grapes but makes his own champagne. The first vintage appeared in 2002. The village lies on the Montagne de Reims, just south of Reims, and is classified Premier Cru. Brochet is also self-taught, an artist, and races vintage cars.

One slope, one plot

His entire holding of around 2.5 hectares lies in a single lieu-dit: Le Mont Benoît. The slope falls gently towards the south-east. Above the chalk lies a covering layer of clay and limestone, only about 25 centimetres thick in the upper part. The oldest vines were planted in 1962. The varieties grown are Pinot Meunier, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The conversion to organic farming began in 2008, and the estate is regarded as certified organic.

In the cellar Brochet works largely by hand. He presses in a small vertical press and separates the lots by grape variety, age and site. He uses only the heart of the first pressing (coeur de cuvée). The rest he sells to the trade or turns into ratafia. In all, around 10,000 to 12,000 bottles are produced a year.

“In 1997 he took over the family's vineyards in Villers-aux-Nœuds, after the leases with négociants had expired.

The cuvées

• Le Mont Benoît Extra Brut: the main cuvée, made from all three grape varieties. The 2021 base contains 40 per cent reserve wine. It was fermented in barrel with native yeasts and aged 11 months on the lees.
• Les Hauts Chardonnays: 100 per cent Chardonnay from the top of the hill. Only the heart of the pressing is used. The wine spends a further year in 350-litre barrels. Gault&Millau rates the Haut Chardonnay 95 out of 100 points.
• Les Hauts Meuniers: pure Meunier, also aged in 350-litre barrels and usually bottled without dosage.
• Rosé d'Assemblage: Meunier with around 10 per cent Meunier red wine from the La Molette site. Brochet used to make a rosé de saignée until he switched to assemblage.

The style is precise, saline and chalky, with plenty of tension. Brochet is one of the growers who have given the Meunier vine new standing.

You will find the estate at 7 Impasse Brochet, 51500 Villers-aux-Nœuds. According to Gault&Millau, the champagnes are sold on site. Because the quantities are small, it is best to get in touch before visiting.