Jean Milan

Jean Milan is a family estate in Oger, one of the 17 grand cru villages of the Côte des Blancs. Charles Milan, a broker and grower, was among the first récoltants-manipulants of the Côte des Blancs in 1864. He was followed by Henry, Jean, Henry-Pol and today Caroline. Caroline and Jean-Charles Milan head the house as the fifth generation. Both joined the estate in 2007, and Jean-Charles took over the running of it in 2015.

Sites and grape varieties

The vines stand exclusively in Oger and carry grand cru status. Figures for the vineyard area vary: Gault&Millau gives around 5 hectares, the Guide Hachette 6 hectares. According to a merchant's profile, the vines, averaging 43 years of age, are spread across 42 parcels. The sites include Beaudure, Chenets, Gloriettes, Noyerots, Petites Haies, Vireuses and Crayères. Only Chardonnay is grown. Because the house also buys in grapes from friendly grand cru growers, it is no longer a pure grower estate, according to one importer.

Approach and cuvées

The estate is certified "Terra Vitis" and "Haute Valeur Environnementale 3". Picking is by hand, and pressing is traditional, using old presses. Wood has a firm place at Milan. The Réserve Brut is made from two vintages that age for six months to a year in oak barrels and then spend at least four years on the bottle. For the Cuvée 150, base wines from 2010 and 2009 were blended in equal parts to mark the house's 150th anniversary. They matured in used Burgundy barrels. Other cuvées are the Grande Réserve 1864, Symphorine, Transparence and the Rosé Glamour.

• Grande Réserve 1864: Blanc de Blancs Brut
• Cuvée 150: aged in wood, vintages 2009 and 2010
• Oger Barbettes: single-vineyard Blanc de Blancs

Visiting and tasting

The house sits in the middle of the village. According to its website, the address is 8 rue d'Avize, 51190 Oger. It is open Monday to Friday from 10am to 12:30pm and from 2pm to 5pm, on Saturdays from 10am to 5pm, and on Sundays from 10am to 12:30pm. In the high season from May to October, it is advisable to book several weeks in advance. A tasting for 15 euros is offered through a booking portal.