Jose Dhondt

José Dhondt runs a small estate on the main street of Oger, now in its third generation. His grandfather came to Champagne from Belgium in 1924. José returned to the family business in 1973 after his military service and has been making wine here since 1976. The first cuvée under his own name dates from 1974. By his own account, he works together with his daughter Christlène and his son Christophe, from pruning to tasting.

Sites and vines

One correction to the self-portrait: the Côte des Blancs is not 100% classified grand cru. Oger and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger hold that status, while other villages of the Côte des Blancs, such as Vertus, are premier cru. Dhondt owns around five hectares, mostly in Oger, with some in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and in Saudoy in the Sézannais, where he grows chardonnay and pinot noir. Peter Liem gives 5.04 hectares and a production of 50,000 bottles a year. Other merchants speak of six hectares. The vines are 25 years old on average, though the grapes for the Cuvée Vieilles Vignes come from a small plot on the slope at Oger, planted by his grandfather.

In the cellar

Dhondt avoids chemicals as far as possible (culture raisonnée) and tends to pick late, in order to reach ideal ripeness in this cool region. Organic certification is not documented. The cellar holds a traditional Coquard vertical press and temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks for fermentation. Malolactic fermentation always takes place, to soften the naturally high acidity of Côte des Blancs chardonnay. The dosage is usually around 6 g/l.

The range is compact: Blanc de Blancs Brut, Rosé Brut and Mes Vieilles Vignes as a vintage cuvée. The Blanc de Blancs is 100% chardonnay. Wine Enthusiast described it as creamy and ripe, with a chalky, mineral mouthfeel, and awarded it 92 points. The rosé is made from Sézannais pinot noir using the saignée method.

Visiting

The estate is at 1 Rue de Flavigny in Oger. According to the vin-vigne directory, visits and tastings are possible, from March on Sundays from 10 am to 1 pm. Do ask in advance, as opening times can change.