Cuvée Royale Brut Nature

With no added sugar at all, this Cuvée Royale from Joseph Perrier shows what is in the grapes. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay contribute 35 per cent each, Pinot Meunier 30 per cent, all from Premiers and Grands Crus. The house is based in Châlons-en-Champagne and once supplied the English crown. The nose is floral, with rose petals, peony, verbena and acacia, plus spicy notes.

On the palate it opens lively, with apple and pear. Candied citrus fruit and fresh hay follow, then brioche and vanilla on the finish. The overall impression is pure and fresh. Chill the bottle in an ice bucket for about twenty minutes and serve it in a white wine glass. It suits an aperitif, raw fish such as carpaccio with olive oil, and shellfish, where its freshness and lack of sweetness come into their own.