H. Goutorbe

The Maison H. Goutorbe is a family estate of 22 hectares. It lies in Aÿ, a renowned Grand Cru village 3 km from Épernay. Aÿ sits on the Vallée de la Marne, and it is from here that the family works its vineyards.

From nursery to champagne

The trade of nurseryman, which Emile Goutorbe took up at the beginning of the 20th century, is regarded by the family as the first link in the chain of the winegrower's craft. The fourth generation carries it on to this day. Emile's son Henri (1922 to 2009) began making the first champagnes immediately after the Second World War. In 1970 Henri's son René took over the estate, enlarged the vineyard and expanded the winery. Today his sons work alongside him: Bertrand in the cellar, Étienne in the vineyards.

Sites, grape varieties and ageing

The heart of the estate is its parcels in Aÿ. To these are added Premier Cru parcels in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, Mutigny, Bisseuil, Avenay-Val-d'Or, Cumières and Hautvillers, as well as plots in Gyé-sur-Seine and Sézanne. The plantings are 70 per cent Pinot Noir, 25 per cent Chardonnay and 5 per cent Meunier. Pinot Noir shapes the house style. Some importers quote 25 hectares with six hectares of Aÿ Grand Cru, while the Maison itself speaks of 22 hectares.

The grapes are picked by hand and vinified parcel by parcel. The assemblage follows in March, after which the bottles rest on the lees for at least three years before disgorgement. According to one merchant, the vineyards are worked in a way that respects the environment and the ecosystem. I could not find any organic certification to back this up.

Cuvées and visiting

The range includes the Cuvée Prestige, the Rosé Brut, the Millésime Brut and the Spécial Club. The family belongs to the Club Trésors de Champagne and therefore bottles its own Spécial Club. It is made up of 70 per cent Pinot Noir and 30 per cent Chardonnay, entirely from Grand Cru sites around Aÿ.

The cellars, which date from the 17th to the 21st century, lie beneath the Rue Jeanson and can be seen on a guided tour. Visits are by appointment only. If you would like to stay longer: in 2004 René and Nicole Goutorbe opened the Hotel Castel Jeanson with 17 rooms, 100 metres from the cellars.