Jean Moutardier

The house of Jean Moutardier stands in Le Breuil, in the Surmelin valley, a small tributary of the Marne, 25 km from Épernay. The Moutardier family has been rooted here since the 18th century. The estate therefore sits on the western edge of the appellation, where Meunier (in German, Müllerrebe) feels at home.

Four generations and a fresh start

Camille was the first Moutardier to make his own champagne, in 1920. The Guide Hachette gives 1926 as the founding year of the maison. The family history goes back further, though: Octave Moutardier was a winegrower at the end of the 19th century, and Camille's son Jean believed in the quality of the Meunier grapes of the Surmelin. Today the house is run by Jean's daughter Élisabeth and her sons William and Simon. Since 2012 two brothers have been writing the next chapter of the house, with the aim of bringing together the modern and the traditional.

Vineyards and way of working

The 18 hectares of vines grow on soils where chalk and clay dominate. The plots are spread across the two communes of Le Breuil and Baulne-en-Brie. The growers see this as the source of the great freshness and the saline note in their champagnes.

The grape varieties show a clear emphasis: 80% Meunier, 10% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Noir. According to Gault&Millau, bought-in grapes supplement the estate's own harvest. The next generation has introduced the HVE and VDC certifications, which cover environmental protection and sustainable viticulture in Champagne.

Cuvées and visiting

The range includes Carte d'Or (also as a Demi-Sec), Sélection, Pure Meunier, Cuvée Rosée, Millésime and a Ratafia. The website also lists still Coteaux Champenois, white and rosé. The Pure Meunier is one of the house's specialities. Gault&Millau rates the 2013 vintage 91 out of 100 and gives its composition as 80% Meunier and 20% Chardonnay.

• Address: 12, Chemin des Ruelles, 51210 Le Breuil
• Opening hours: Monday to Thursday 8.30 am to 12.30 pm and 1.30 to 5.30 pm, Friday until 4.30 pm, weekends by appointment