Veuve Doussot

Veuve Doussot is based in Noé-les-Mallets, a village in the Côte des Bar in the Aube département, about 15 kilometres from Bar-sur-Seine. The Joly family has worked vines here since 1746, and the house's website speaks of seven generations. The present champagne house was founded in 1973 by Georges Joly. The family chose the name in honour of Ernestine Doussot, great-grandmother of the current head of the estate. Stéphane Joly has run the business since 2000.

Vineyards and approach

According to the Confrérie des Domaines, the estate's distribution network, the estate farms 21 hectares on Kimmeridgian soil over clay-limestone. Older guide entries still give a smaller area, so the figure has probably grown along with the business. The grapes grown are Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Pinot Noir clearly dominates, with the website citing around 80 per cent. Picking is by hand, and the champagnes are made entirely on the estate.

Stéphane Joly describes his work as sensible, sustainable viticulture. The house holds the HVE and Viticulture Durable en Champagne certifications, and according to the website it is currently converting to organic farming. Around 60 per cent of the bottles go for export, while 40 per cent stay in France.

The cuvées

The range runs from L by VD Blanc de Noirs, a Brut Nature, through a Blanc de Blancs and a Rosé, to the vintage cuvée Memory 2013. There is also a Ratafia de Champagne and a red Coteaux Champenois made from Pinot Noir. The Guide des vins rates both the Blanc de Noirs and the Rosé at 93 out of 100 points.

Visiting and tasting

Stéphane Joly is also Grand Argentier of the Commanderie du Saulte Bouchon. His sister Sylvie looks after visitors and has a background in hospitality training. She leads the cellar tours and tastings. The house is open Monday to Friday from 9 to 12 and from 14 to 17, and on Saturdays from 9.30 to 12.30, ideally by appointment. French, English and German are spoken. Those who want to stay longer can book the gîte "Chez Loup", which measures 110 square metres and sleeps six.

• Address: 1 Rue de Chatet, 10360 Noé-les-Mallets
• Telephone: +33 (0)3 25 29 60 61