El monje benedictino Dom Perignon (Pierre Pérignon, 1638-1715) contribuyó decisivamente al perfeccionamiento de los métodos de vinificación en Champaña. Como maestro bodeguero y procurador de la abadía de Saint-Pierre d'Hautvillers entre 1668 y 1715, no sólo supervisó los viñedos de alta calidad de la abadía, sino también otros viñedos vecinos, así como los derechos de pesca y los molinos de viento. La abadía de Hautvillers, ya conocida por su buen vino, gozaba también de ventajas fiscales y recibía regularmente tributos o dîme en forma de dinero, uvas y/o vino.
El autor Emile Roche señala que de todas las existencias de vino de la abadía antes de la Revolución Francesa (suficientes para 280 mil botellas), sólo una octava parte procedía de sus propios viñedos y el resto era atribuible al damailgen dîme. Así pues, los famosos vinos que acabaron llevando el nombre de la abadía de Hautvillers no sólo procedían de los viñedos de la abadía, sino también de otras regiones como Pierry, Avize y Mesnil sur Oger.
Fue precisamente esta diversidad natural de las vides y los vinos suministrados, causada por las diferentes variedades de uva, ubicaciones y calidades, combinada con el deseo de producir de forma fiable un vino exquisito cada año a pesar de las impredecibles condiciones climáticas, lo que debió plantear a Dom Perignon un reto extremadamente complejo. Por ello, ImageHe se dedicó intensamente a estudiar las características de los diferentes vinos, el clima y las condiciones del suelo, y creó con éxito mezclas cualificadas que garantizaban una alta calidad casi constante del vino año tras año. Así nació el concepto de cuvée, que sigue siendo hoy en día la base de la calidad siempre fiable del Champagne.
Dom Perignon también consiguió producir de forma fiable vino blanco a partir de uvas de color oscuro. También promovió el cambio de los tapones de las botellas de champán, que pasaron de los tapones inferiores de madera y cáñamo a los tapones de roble (como era habitual en Inglaterra desde hacía mucho tiempo). De este modo, Dom Perignon contribuyó significativamente a la fundación de la producción de champán de alta calidad, aunque sus esfuerzos se dirigieron principalmente a la producción de exquisitos vinos tranquilos en lugar de espumosos. Aunque la perfección de los champanes espumosos no se alcanzó hasta muchas décadas después de Dom Perignon, los vinos ligeramente espumosos de Champaña eran conocidos desde hacía tiempo y ya gozaban de gran popularidad en el extranjero (véase también Saint Evremond).
Se dice que Dom Perignon exclamó entonces: "Hermanos. Venid rápido. Estoy bebiendo estrellas". Es discutible si se trataba de una exclamación de su entusiasmo o de su decepción en aquel momento. ImageTambién hay que señalar que Dom Perignon compartió este periodo crucial en el desarrollo del champán con otras personas de gran talento que, obviamente, también estaban en contacto entre sí, como por ejemplo Frère Oudart, maestro bodeguero de la abadía de Saint-Pierre aux Monts de Châlons, Dom Thierry Ruinart, que era monje benedictino en Hautvillers en la misma época que Dom Perignon, y el célebre enólogo Claude Moët, cuyo enorme savoir faire o saber hacer en la correcta elaboración de vinos exquisitos, entre otras cosas, ya era bien conocido en la época.
ImageEn 1823, poco después de la Revolución Francesa (1789 - 1799), la casa Moët & Chandon, actualmente bajo la dirección de Jean-Remy Moët (1758 - 1841, nieto del legendario Claude Moët), compró la abandonada abadía de Hautvillers y los viñedos asociados. En 1930, la casa Moët & Chandon adquirió a la casa Mercier la marca Dom Pérignon, aún en desuso, y elaboró en 1936 la fantástica cuvée de prestigio Dom Pérignon. Este excelente champán es ahora tan famoso en todo el mundo que en EE.UU., por ejemplo, basta mencionar "Dom" en relación con el champán para que casi todo el mundo piense inmediatamente en "Dom Perignon".
Volver al léxico y al glosario | Usted estaba aquí: Dom Perignon
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