Leclerc Briant

Leclerc Briant is one of those Champagne houses that took the organic idea seriously early on. It was founded in 1872 by Lucien Leclerc in Cumières and moved to Épernay in 1955. At that point the family estate, under Bertrand Leclerc and his wife Jacqueline Briant, became a négociant house and took the name Leclerc Briant.

Organic and biodynamic for generations

Organic farming here begins earlier than the phrase "since the 1990s" suggests. Bertrand Leclerc already introduced organic methods, and the first certifications came from his son Pascal, of the fifth generation. Sources give different years for the exact start, anywhere from 1947 to the 1960s. The 30 hectares farmed at the time were certified organic in 1989 and biodynamic in 1990. After Pascal's sudden death in October 2010, the house owned the largest biodynamic estate in Champagne. His daughters initially sold off parts of the property.

In 2012 Mark Nunnelly and Denise Dupré took over the house. They are an American couple from Boston. Today it is run by Frédéric Zeimett, a native of Champagne, who previously spent 20 years at Moët & Chandon. Hervé Jestin advises the house on oenology.

“It was founded in 1872 by Lucien Leclerc in Cumières and moved to Épernay in 1955.

Vineyards and wines

The house now farms fourteen hectares, mostly in grand cru sites (Mailly, Le Mesnil) and premier cru sites (Hautvillers, Cumières, Bisseuil, Trépail, Rilly-la-Montagne, Villers-Allerand). To these are added grapes from a few certified organic growers. Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay are planted. All cuvées carry the vegan label. The house is known for low dosages, and the wines are unfiltered and lightly dosed.

The single-vineyard cuvées include Les Crayères, La Croisette and Les Chèvres Pierreuses from premier cru Cumières. The most unusual cuvée is Abyss, a Brut Nature. It ages for around twelve months at a depth of 60 metres off the island of Ouessant. Other sources mention up to 15 months. A good place to start is the Réserve Extra Brut, which according to the retailer is 42% Pinot Noir, 33% Chardonnay and 25% Meunier, with a dosage of 4.5 g/l.

Visiting Épernay

The cellars are on the Rue de la Chaude Ruelle. At the Avenue de Champagne address, the house runs "Le 25bis", a guesthouse with five rooms and a wine boutique. Visitors praise the tours and tastings, in which the biodynamic approach is explained. It is wise to book ahead. You will find the details on the house's website.